Rexnet Subaru Forums: Diy - Boost Gauge Install - Rexnet Subaru Forums

Jump to content

Rexnet New Tags
  • 6 Pages +
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • Last »
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

Diy - Boost Gauge Install for snowy85 Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   wrxsti.l 

  • Champion Racer
  • View gallery
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 4,380
  • Joined: 19-June 07
  • Gender:Male
  • State:QLD
  • Car:Ford BF XR6T
  • Thanked: 0 times

Posted 25 October 2007 - 07:59 PM

Had a request to post images of where to connect the boost gauge vacuum hose and how to install the hose without it sticking out like dog ballz. Anyhoo, here goes.

First things first, before you go cutting anything, head on down to your closest supercheap and buy a metre of vacuum hose - make sure it is not the thin-walled flimsy shit. From memory, the hose I got had an internal diameter of 4mm and the hose wall was about 3 mm thick and quite firm when squeezed with the fingers (not overly hard though). You will quickly spot the difference between the two types of hoses.

Secondly, you need to buy a 4mm T piece. I got a plastic T-piece, but you can get brass if you like.

Lastly, you need to buy an adapter and the required barbed nipple fitting to connect the vacuum hose to the boost gauge's hard-plastic tube (that crap white tube hose that comes with the boost gauge).


Now the photos :P

Image 1: Photo of engine bay from front, with a circle around the hose I used to connect the vacuum hose.
Posted Image

Image 2: Close up of where I connected the T-piece. You can also see where the hose connects to the inlet manifold. This is on my 02STi, and should be the same for all STi's upto 05. The WRX is in a similar spot I think - maybe someone can post a pic?
Posted Image

Image 3a: I have outlined where I ran the vacuum hose along side the factory hoses to keep it looking stealth.
Posted Image

Image 3b: Same photo without the outline - you can see it blends with the factory hoses pretty well.
Posted Image

Image 4: I have circled the brass adapter I purchased from Supercheap - this joins the hoses together. I could have mounted inside the cabin, but it is easier to access here.
Posted Image

Image 5: It is hard to see, but I ran the hose through the lower grommet in the firewall. Some use the upper grommet beside the brake master cylinder, which is easier to access from the engine side, but much harder to access from the cabin, as it is way up behind the dash. The lower grommet comes out behind the pedal set.
Posted Image

Image 6: Hose all installed and zip-tied into position. Unless you really have a good look, you wouldn't even notice the vacuum hose installed for the boost guage. If you wanted really stealth, you could run the vacuum hose in through the grommet and mount the adapter in the cabin under the dash.
Posted Image

Image 7: Boost gauge installed :o
Posted Image


Hope this helps Paul :P
Rexnet New Tags
0

#2 User is offline   Mikey7 

  • Pro Racer
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 2,558
  • Joined: 30-November 06
  • Gender:Male
  • State:NSW
  • Car:2013 WRX STi
  • Thanked: 0 times

Posted 26 October 2007 - 11:02 AM

Where were you when i did this 3 weeks ago?!
Lol i did mine too.. but my pipe is blue.. so stands out, which i dont like, but ill get over it.
I Tee'd into the same place on my 07 wrx..

I bought the SABER gauges which came with everything i needed.

Now all you need to do is a DIY for oil temp/press sandwich plate installation :lol:
- Mike

Posted Image
0

#3 User is offline   Grifter 

  • Amateur Racer
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 1,737
  • Joined: 07-September 06
  • State:Overseas
  • Car:ex-rex
  • Thanked: 0 times

Posted 26 October 2007 - 11:07 AM

very good write up
Posted Image
0

#4 User is offline   fdt 

  • Amateur Racer
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 219
  • Joined: 17-October 06
  • State:NSW
  • Car:my01
  • Thanked: 0 times

Posted 26 October 2007 - 06:39 PM

nice write up
good pics
0

#5 User is offline   jaeyon 

  • Amateur Racer
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 1,193
  • Joined: 26-April 06
  • State:NSW
  • Car:00 S2000
  • Thanked: 0 times

Posted 27 October 2007 - 10:31 AM

looks awesome! how did you run the vacuum line through the pillar? ive bought a corner a pillar pod and im not sure how to get the vacuum line there once its through the firewall.
0

#6 User is offline   wrxsti.l 

  • Champion Racer
  • View gallery
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 4,380
  • Joined: 19-June 07
  • Gender:Male
  • State:QLD
  • Car:Ford BF XR6T
  • Thanked: 0 times

Posted 27 October 2007 - 01:58 PM

I pulled the factory pillar out. There are no screws to do this, just start at the top and with a few firm pulls it will unclip. I then unscrewed the lower plastic from the dash (under the steering wheel).

Once both are off, you will see at the bottom of the pillar wher it runs into the edge of the dash, an area where you can feed the vacuum line through. From underneath, it is just above the fuse holder area and then up beside the door seal.

I have to pull my gauges out in a few weeks (replacing the blitz gauges) so I will take a few more photos.
0

#7 User is offline   wrxsti.l 

  • Champion Racer
  • View gallery
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 4,380
  • Joined: 19-June 07
  • Gender:Male
  • State:QLD
  • Car:Ford BF XR6T
  • Thanked: 0 times

Posted 09 November 2007 - 07:31 PM

Quick update.

Have had a few members ask details of the pillar mount (colour, size etc ) and thought I'd update with a little more info :)

The pillar mount is from Greddy/Trust (on sale at Cartoys in Adelaide at the time). It is shaped to fit over the original pillar and comes in a grey colour, but the grey doesn't match the factory grey plastics - it's like a primer coat.

I didn't like that it was not the same grey, so I purchased some matt black bumper primer and basically painted both my pillars and the pillar mount matt black. The final finish matches almost exactly to the black dashboard colour.

If you have a close look at the photo at the bottom of this post my pillar gauge mount is now black :P

You'll also notice my left factory pillar is black too :)

Also, rather then use the screws that came with the pillar mount (to screw the pillar mount into the factory pillar plastic), I purchased a couple small black interior plastic clips from Autobahn (the clips that hold on car interior plastic panels - visible above the gauges in the photo). There are many different types of panel clips, so it's your choice which ones you think will look ok and still have enough strength when fastened to hold the pillar mount in place.

Lastly, I have been quizzed over the Drift guages and how I got them to fit because of their smaller diameter to other guages.

Greddy's and other generic pillar mounts use 60mm holes to mount their gauges, but the Drift gauges are 52mm in diameter - 6mm smaller - I had to fill and redrill them to suit :P


A quick howto is as follows (not for the faint hearted):

Step 1:
Get some cardboard (I used a cereal box) and cut out a piece that fits in flush on the underside of the pillar mount, covering the 60mm holes from the inside and touching all edges of the underside wall. This will be known as the "hole cover".

Step 2:
Using the "hole cover" templates you have made (one for each hole/mount) trace the design onto a piece of 3mm MDF board.

Step 4:
Cut the "hole covers" out of the MDF and test fit so that it sits flush up against the underside of the pillar mount's gauge mounting hole. If it doesn't sit flush against the underside, you need to sand the edges until it fits flush.

Step 5:
Mix up some fiberglass resin (just the resin) and coat one side of each of the hole covers and stick/glue them to the underside of the pillar mount covering the holes, keeping pressure on them until they starts to stick/hold, then let everything dry.

Step 6:
Once it has dried apply another 2x coats of resin to the underside, this time adding fiberglass sheet to the mix for strength (let the first coat dry before applying the second). You need to make sure the fiberglass sheet goes up at least an inch on the sides.

Basically paint the sides and the hole cover, then stick the firbglass sheet (I cut it into strips) on the wet resin and then paint more resin on top until the fiberglass sheet is soaked in resin, making sure all the MDF and one inch of the surrounding underside of the pillar mount is covered in resin and fiberglass.

Step 7:
Once everything has dried, flip the pillar mount over and you should see (looking from front on) the MDF/resin has covered the hole completely - but there is an indent of about 1mm where the hole is. What you need to do is mix up some more resin, and fill the hole. I mixed the resin with a little more catalyst so that it wasn't too runny (stops it from dripping everywhere over the front) and then filled the hole from the front so that the resin was pooled in the hole and slightly higher then the actual pillar itself.

If you looked square on at the top of the hole area, it had this look: ______.---------------.______
resin filled hole = .---------------.
pillar hole edge = ____________


Step 8:
Once that has dried, you need to sand it smooth. Then re-drill the hole to the correct size (using hole saw bits on drill).

Step 9:
Wipe everything down with wax and grease remover and paint a coat of plastic etch primer.

Step 10:
Once dry, sand with fine grit sandpaper and wipe down again with wax and grease remover.

Last step:
Spray the pillar mount, and both factory pillars (left and right) with matt black bumper primer - 2x coats minimum, the more the better the finish (I used 3x coats from memory).

I'm happy with the end result :)

Posted Image

:)
0

#8 User is offline   Paolo 

  • Amateur Racer
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 121
  • Joined: 18-February 07
  • State:QLD
  • Car:MY07 WRX
  • Thanked: 0 times

Posted 03 February 2008 - 12:32 AM

Awesome. I am installing mine tomorrow. My guage came with clear hose...... Might get some black one. Looks better
Cruise car - 07 WRX - SERRA

163.7KW ATW

Work truck - 07 Mazda BT50 4x4 - APS
0

#9 User is offline   El Pedro 

  • Pro Racer
  • View gallery
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 2,574
  • Joined: 29-December 07
  • Gender:Male
  • State:QLD
  • Car:Bugeye Wagz
  • Thanked: 1 times

Posted 22 February 2008 - 11:15 PM

Thanks for the write up. I was just going to pay someone to fit it but got bored tonight and with your help was a piece of cake. I have a mount that just sits on the corner on the dash against the pillar.

I am a bit of an electrics novice so haven't hooked up the light. If anyone could add an easy wire up for the light that would be super!
0

#10 User is offline   wrxsti.l 

  • Champion Racer
  • View gallery
  • Group: Forum Member
  • Posts: 4,380
  • Joined: 19-June 07
  • Gender:Male
  • State:QLD
  • Car:Ford BF XR6T
  • Thanked: 0 times

Posted 10 March 2008 - 12:33 AM

Just tap in to the dash dimmer switches power cable. Use a multimeter to check each wire and look for the wire that drops in voltage when you move the dash dimmer :grin:

When I get my car back I will take a few more photos to show how to connect the power up :D
0

Share this topic:


  • 6 Pages +
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • Last »
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

2 User(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users

Rexnet New Tags